April, 2009

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Accusations of Lomography

Thursday, April 30th, 2009

Someone who has seen my personal shots recently accused me of being a student of the lomography school of thought in photography.  I nodded, shook my head, and quickly changed the subject.

Why?  Primarily because I had never heard the term before.  Wikipedia has a nice entry on LOMOgraphy if you are so inclined.  I had to read it before I understood what the accusation was.  I wasn’t being accused of being some schlock photographer, following a trend of using cheap cameras like the Holga.  No, I was being accused of liking the honest, natural, non-staged expressions of people who aren’t expecting the shot.

So yeah, I like that.  But I also like the unexpected angles (and occasional sweet shot) that comes up when doing the whole “shoot, don’t think” approach.  See the over-the-shoulder post.

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Taking a walk

Wednesday, April 29th, 2009

Yesterday, around 6:30pm.  The sun had been shining all day, and it was turning into a beautiful evening.  Went for a short walk with my daughter, which usually means stopping at a small bridge overlooking a trickle of water. Think of Pooh and his throwing sticks in the water game.

This time of year, it’s usually backed up, so it’s kinda murky.  But the sun was in the perfect position for reflections.  Witness:

Reflection of a tree in the trickle by the trail

Reflection of a tree in the trickle by the trail (click for larger view)

Details: 50 ISO, Manual, daylight ISO, -1/3 EV.

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When White Balance is Wrong

Tuesday, April 28th, 2009
A mid-winter scene.  Note the yellows.

A mid-winter scene. Note the yellows.

Stepping back to last week’s white balance post, Let me show you something that was wrong.  During the winter, most of my small-camera photography is indoor.  As such, ISO is always set high/fast, and white balance is usually left on Tungsten (the light bulb icon).

So I walk out of a building (at 8:30 in the morning, no less), and this is what I see.  It’s cold, maybe -5 F, and I don’t want to mess around too much.  ISO was already at 400, as it usually is in the winter.  Flash was off, EV was at 0.  This is the exact exposure as it appeared that morning.

However, note the yellows.  I could fix that (easily) in post-production, or I could claim that it’s part of my artistic vision.  It’s neither, however.  No, this was the effect of taking a pic when White Balance was set to daylight.  The big light there?  It’s not at daylight colors.  Thus everything went yellow.

Still, not really a problem.  I have a feeling this would work extremely well in black & white…

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CHDK on the sd500

Sunday, April 26th, 2009

Sunset shot on Maui, shutter speed at 1/100,000

Sunset shot on Maui, shutter speed at 1/100,000 (click for larger pic)

CHDK.  If you haven’t heard of it, it’s a pretty neat thing.  Go ahead, read about it on the link above.  I’ll wait.

Back?  OK, great.  so the summary: the CHDK project allows programmers with more time than I have to hack in to the camera’s firmware and setup your own environment.  for example, you can override the shutter speed, like I did in the photo to the right.  That’s a late-afternoon shot, directly at the sun from a beach in Maui.

The main reason I use CHD is so that I can get RAW images out of the sd500.  The JPG versions are excellent, but RAW give me some flexibility.

For example, in this pic: the photo directly out of the camera is definately on the dark side.  A little bit of the details have been lost in shadows.  To resurrect?  Well, with RAW, I can nudge up the exposure, lighten the midtones, and bring back down the shadows.  The result: more detail, still keeping the dark overall feeling.

This pic makes me think of old pinhole shots, the kind that required an incredible amount of light to make a photo.

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Hand over the Camera

Sunday, April 26th, 2009

Continuing this thread, what about when you hand the camera to another?  My daughter saw me playing with my camera at a stoplight & asked for it.  I know full well that she’ll drop it, push buttons, but will also try to take a photo or three.

So, before handing off the photo, I set ISO to 200 since she’s a shaky shooter.  Whaddaya want at four years?  White balance to daylight, EV stuck at -1/3.  Gets us the shot below.

This one did take some post-processing.  If you notice, there’s a wide, wide range of exposures here.  Had to play a bit before I could resurrect it.

At a stop light on the way to day care, actually.

At a stop light on the way to day care, actually.

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After work, another example

Saturday, April 25th, 2009

You’ve seen the beach, now the other extreme: winter in Alaska.  This photo was taken after work, in early January.  It’s pretty unremarkable – a failure, by my standards. No detail in the moon, the sky overly noisy…  But the colors are rich, and the warmth of the lights reflects (lightly) off the snow.

To pull this one off: ISO set to 400, white balance to daylight, EV still -1/3.  The camera set shutter speed at 1/20.  If I hadn’t been shivering, I might have worked that to my preference.

January Afternoon Moon - 4:45pm.

January Afternoon Moon - 4:45pm on 1/9/2009.

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Going out, an example

Friday, April 24th, 2009

Building on the last five posts or so, the next few days will be examples of photographs taken by following my technique (more-or-less).  I’ll describe the situation, the settings, and then display a photo for the day.

Today, I start with a picture from last November.  We were on vacation in Wailea, Maui.  If you know about the area, you know how nice it is.  The weather was unnaturally windy, though – rough for that area.  It even rained one day!  And by wind, I mean “light breeze.”

So here we are, in a beautiful area, but there are clouds.  Spotty clouds, mostly sunny. Going down to the beach, I have the sd500 in the waterproof case.  ISO is pre-set to 50, white balance to daylight, EV to -1/3.  At the beach (same area as the image posted on April 5th), I noticed a rocky area to the south, and some rocks stacked up by (assumedly) the locals.

Stack of rocks, setup by locals (I'm assuming)

Stack of rocks, setup by locals (I'm assuming).

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Exposure Values on the sd500

Thursday, April 23rd, 2009
EV Compensation in action

EV Compensation in action

Exposure Value (EV for short) is a way of adjusting your exposure.  Exposure, which is to say how bright the photo is.  By default, EV compensation is set to zero: don’t make it brighter, don’t make it darker.  Just take it at what the sensor thinks is the correct exposure.

Notice that I’m set at -1/3.  Each full number can be considered a “stop”, and (gross oversimplification, I know) each photo will have roughly 5 stops. So, by shifting it to -1/3 (that’s 1/3 of a stop darker than normal), I’m slightly skewing the end results to be darker.  Why?

The main reason it to retain detail.  Sometimes, when there are extremely bright highlights, will bump it down to -2/3 or -1.  A full stop darker will help keep those highlights from being blown out.

Digital photography basically works like this: if something gets too bright, it stops registering info.  Or rather, the sensor keeps reading light, but it won’t go past 255 (for red, green, and blue channels) – too much light and it stops there.  There I go, getting lost in the technology again.  Ignore it, just accept: if too much light hits the sensor, no detail gets recorded.

Stepping down the EV will cut down the amount of light hitting the sensor.  Fewer pixels hit the maximum, and more detail gets saved.  The tradeoff? More noise – darker photos have less time to write valid data to the shadows, so shadows get noisier.
So, I take slightly darker photos, and massage them in Photoshop after the fact to get back to where I want.

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Custom White Balance

Wednesday, April 22nd, 2009

I don’t actually use this much these days, but it’s a handy option to have, especially in difficult to gauge situations.  Setting white balance is easy; it’s as easy as taking a snapshot.  Using it appropriately is tougher.

the custom options for white balance

the custom options for white balance

Setting white balance: go into the menu, like we did yesterday.  This time, go to the far-right option (looks like a couple of triangles and a dot).  Immediately, you’ll start seeing funny things going on, like in the pic to the right.  That’s the custom white balance screen evaluating the balance based on… a black piece of paper. To set this as the white balance point, do what it says: press the MENU button.

So yeah, it’s easy to set white balance.  but what should you use?  Well, something white.  Or non-tinted, at least – grey technically works pretty well, so long as it’s a dead gray.  Snow works, so long as it isn’t yellow (and for us in Anchorage, so long as it isn’t break-up).  Walls sometimes work – I’ve found decent results using grey construction blocks and the interior walls of my house (we painted it an almost flat white).  Shoot, after a long winter in Alaska, I’m so pasty I can even use the back of my hand and get decent results.

These are all techniques that work in a pinch, but it’s better to use a real white balance card or something similar to get it right.  When travelling, I usually carry a card with me.  Running around town? Not at all.  That’s why I rely on presets with the sd500.
What about my SLR?  I usually use kelvin. That’s not an option on the sd500.

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Keeping your Whites Tight

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009

White balance.  It’s more important than most people think – controlls the overall feel of the photo, most notably in regards to how warm or cold it feels.  These days (and even with this old camera), the auto white-balance settings are not that bad.  But by setting it manually, it can be much better.

White Balance Menu Options

White Balance Menu Options

So reviewing the options: most cameras come with presets for straight daylight, cloudy conditions, interior light, fluorescents, sometimes a halogen fluorescent, and (most of the time, unless you’re unlucky) ad custom setting.  Look to the image at right – those are the exact settings in order from left to right.  On this camera, to get there: presS the FUNC button, then move down to the second option (where the icon of the sun is on the left, arrow to the right of it).  From here, you move left or right to select the appropriate white balance.

So, situations: in direct sunlight, definately leave it on the icon of the sun.  This will work pretty well.  Cloudy conditions, you’re thinking: go ahead & shove it over to clouds, right?  Not so fast: that works well for landscape photos, nature photos, maybe flowers & buildings.  But most of the time we’re taking pics of people.  On an overcast day, I usually leave it on sunny when the subject is other people.  This warms up flesh tones & makes the people look a bit more… orange, actually.  But it’s that healthy orange glow that people like in their photographs.

Once you move indoors, you’d think you would want the icon that looks like a bulb, right?  Move to indoor lighting.  Again, sometimes true, but not always.  That bulb is actually balanced for tungsten lighting, or typical indoor lights.  But these days, you can get indoor lights that are daylight balanced – if you use the indoor setting for daylight balance, your photos will have a blue tint to them.  Not good.

So, the general rule that I follow: if I can detect a slight yellowness to the light, I shift into this white balance.  If not?  Leave it at cloudy.  Yes, cloudy.  Cloudy is slightly warmer than most daylight-balanced bulbs so flesh tones come out well, yet it’s close enough that everything else will look natural.

The next setting, fluorescent lighting.  If you see flourescent lights, use this.  Flourescents give a slightly off-cast to color (usually slightly green), and you don’t really want people in your pics with a slightly green tint.  Unless it’s your kids after gorging on candy.  Then it’s normal.

Halogen flourescent?  I don’t use this, actually.  Ever.  Perhaps someday I’ll rethink that.

Custom white balance is a pretty large topic.  That will be covered in tomorrow’s post.

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