Technique

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On the Fly Strobing

Wednesday, December 2nd, 2009
Cake, Detail

Strobed cake

Go ahead, take a gander at the pic to the right. Click it, look at it up close. This is one of my favorite (recent) pics – taken just last week on the fly.  Since posting it on Flickr, I’ve had a few people asking about the details.  Perhaps better said: they wanted to know how I did it.

First off, this is a single-strobe shot. The background was brighter than the foreground, so that’s my primary area of exposure concern.  This means taking a reading on one of the brighter areas with a spot meter.  In my case, the in-camera one – no prob.

Now, dial it down a little, to bring in the saturation of the colors.  End result: before I’ve taken the shot, I’ve already set the camera in manual at 1/100th, f/ 9.

This makes the foreground far to dark.  So quick, set the on-camera flash to commander mode, yank of the large flash, set it to sync mode, and hand it to someone nearby (thanks, Josh!).  Set that to 50mm (limit the spread of the light), and have him hold it up near the ceiling.

At this point we have a remote flash, the background exposed properly, and a nearby diffuser to blast light off of (the ceiling).  Set the external flash to iTTL, with “0″ compensation across.

We’re set, now let’s go: give it the first test shot.  As expected, it was too dark. This is mostly due to the light color of the cake and the bright background.  Dialed it up to +.7ev on the flash and took try #2.  Dead on – we’re good.  All shots from that point on were like that.

Flash is barely three feet to camera left for this.  Remember that this is while people are milling about and setting up wedding decorations.  It’s a great effect in little time.

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Another overexposure

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

Just another visual example of handling overexposure. A less dramatic one, too – although I like it better:

Silversword

Silversword

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Overexposing for Winning End Results

Monday, November 23rd, 2009

This is not an original concept, but one espoused by Michael H. Reichmann of The Luminous Landscape.  I hinted at it in yesterday’s post, and I think it deserves a better explanation.

Exposing for Digital

First off, the rule of thumb with digital photography is “expose for the highlights, develop for the shadows.” This is because light reactivity on a digital sensor is fairly linear – that is, each nanosecond X amount of light is received on the sensor. Now, the more light that is received, the “whiter” the detail gets.  Eventually it can’t get any lighter, and that pixel is flat-white.  At this point, we call it “blown out.”

So, with digital you shoot to avoid blown out pixels, which leaves shadows slightly underdeveloped.  Then you try to smooth things out after the fact – thus the need for noise reduction software, etc.

Exposing for Film

Now, the rule of thumb with film is “expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights.” This is referring to how emulsions react to light. One might think that emulsion reactivity, like a digital sensor, is linear – for every nanosecond, x amount of crystals react and you get some detail.  That isn’t true, however: it’s curved.  After a certain amount of exposure to light, the reactivity of the crystals slows down.  So, given a highly dynamic range, a film camera might be able to expose for the shadows and not blow out the highlights.

With film it’s all the more important: in digital, you’re virtually guaranteed detail in the shadows.  With film, it takes a small amount of time to start the chemical reaction.  If there’s not enough light, there’s no reaction – and instead of blown-out highlights, you end up with undeveloped shadows.  The same problem as with digital, but on the opposite end of the spectrum.

Shooting Digital with Film’s rules

Now, what Reichmann said was to shoot digital as if it’s film.  This won’t work with JPEG output, mind you: once JPEGs blow out a pixel, that’s it – game over.

But with RAW photos it’s different. See, RAW photos actually have a stop or two (in my experience, almost three with Nikon RAW) of flexibility past what you can see on a screen. So, the argument goes: expose for the shadows.  You’ll end up with a bright picture, but detail is still all around.

In post-processing you can subjectively reduce your exposure, until you get something you like.  Your shadows will be well-defined, noise will be reduced, and you can control parts of the exposure, just like in the old days in the darkroom.

Yesterday’s final pic is a great example of this in action.  The exposure was fine on the foreground, but the sky was blown out.  Subjective exposure tweaks brought it all back together.

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Rescuing Overexposed Shots

Sunday, November 22nd, 2009

Take the following two pictures:

Unprocessed Image

Unprocessed Image

Processed

Processed

The thing that should jump out at you in the “before” picture is that the clouds have virtually no definition and the sky is washed out.  They are drastically overexposed due to the dark foreground.  Now, some of this may be due to the altitude – I was about 8,000 feet above sea level, something I’m not too used to.  So my mental focus wasn’t that sharp, and I didn’t review the histogram on-site for blown-out highlights. Click to continue »

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Under the Sea

Saturday, November 21st, 2009

You can see things under the sea. See?

Honu (it's not a sauce)

Honu (turtle) under the sea

Taken in a little over 60 feet of water (a hair under 20 meters). At this depth reds, oranges and yellows are mostly gone from the light – you’re stuck with mostly blues and greens (unless you introduce your own light).   This was taken at a deliberately sunken boat (to make a reef). Turtles like to gather here & hang out on the roof of the boat, where surgeonfish (in the background) pick algae off of them.

For this shot: I’m maybe two feet away, with the camera on wide-angle. He didn’t even twitch – no fear of divers. I ultimately got within 6 inches of the guy, but then left (and left him alone)

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At-home Ad-Hoc “light box”

Thursday, October 8th, 2009
Ware ye the fires of Hell

At-home studio shoot of a dark bottle

What you see to the right is a quick shot of some hot sauce that was done at home, to show some friends what the bottle looks like.  The setup I used is rapidly becoming one of my favorite techniques for doing a quick at-home photoshoot that looks like it should be done in a lightbox.

Basically, when you’re doing a lightbox shoot, you’re trying to create an environment where light is diffuse, outside light doesn’t interfere, and you can control all aspects of the shot. Oh, and it has to be quick!

So, setting this up: first of all, I made sure that this was taking place after dark.  No light from outside to interfere.  Then, move to a room where light can be turned off.

Now, with the lights on, setup everything.  In this case, I setup a cookie tin in the back, and stole a pane of glass from a picture frame.  This became the bottom and the sides.  Then, one flash firing towards the back – to illuminate this guy from behind.  One more flash to the right, to give a kick to the site, and for some separation from the background.  Last, a softbox overhead, to light up the tag and make the lid stand out.

Below: a look at the overall layout, courtesy of the Online Lighting Diagram Creator.

Quickshot Layout

Quickshot Layout

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Shooting the moon

Friday, September 18th, 2009

On our recent trip, I had an opportunity to shoot the moon.  What you see below is a 400mm lens on a tripod, manually focused on the moon.  the image itself is cropped, but this is 100% of a 10 mpx file.

Moon detail

Moon detail

Here’s the thing about taking pictures of the moon: if you’re going to do it, you really want to wait until the moon is low on the horizon.  The lower it is, the larger it appears (an atmospheric effect).  In Hawaii, on the Big Island, I’ve seen it much larger and brighter.  But this was pretty good, and you can see quite a few details.

Exposure is the other tricky part.  It might take a few tries, and you’ll need to review carefully.  Basically, though: expose for a bright day.  A starting point, for example, might be f/16, ISO 50, and 1/60th (the “sunny 16″ rule).  For this, I started at 1/100, f/16, ISO 100.  The final exposure, though?  1/40th, f/5.6, ISO 200.  All that to reduce the shake on the camera.

Sometimes you have to compromise.

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Making a high-key photograph

Thursday, August 27th, 2009

Yesterday’s picture was an example of a high-key photo.  Notice how there’s so much white in the image?  That’s the “high” part of the key.

Now, how to pull this off.  First of all, you need a layout for the photo.  In my case, I started with a white peice of paper as a background (yeah, it was pretty big).  I also added the tea, cup, plate and chocolate, deliberately picking white dishes.

So that’s the first part, making sure everything is light. Click to continue »

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Shooting red on a blue background

Thursday, August 20th, 2009
Red strobed flowers (and tagged)

Red strobed flowers

Taking a picture with strobes can be somewhat challenging with the setup that you have to the right.  What we have here are two primary colors, red and blue, with slightly different tones that need to come out well saturated.  I’m doing this indoors, so I don’t want the light to be quite as harsh as I did last time, so I’ll use a softbox.  How am I going to set this up so that the background recedes and the flowers are well saturated?

A few things.  First, I need to keep the lighting on the flowers delicate.  They’re already pretty bright, so they don’t need a lot of light.  Too much, and the colors bleach out.  I also need them to be brighter than the background – the background is actually a mid-to-light blue color (my daughter’s lunchbox, in fact).

So I start by exposing f/stop wise where I think I’ll need it for the light.  f/11 or so.  Then I adjust shutter speed while exposing for the background, aiming to hit -1EV for that guy.  Flash with softbox is perched to camera left, set on manual (14 mm spread) at 1/32nd power.  Blinds it out on the petals.  Move it down in third stops until it stops bleaching out: 1/64 even is the flash.  Try slightly smaller and larger f/stops, find f/11 is still the best.

That’s all there was to this.  These petals are from the www.moosestooth.net parking lot (my daughter snagged them).  I did the full setup, shooting and teardown in 20 minutes – her bath.

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Hyperfocal in Hoonah

Sunday, August 16th, 2009

In yesterday’s post, what you saw was an example of using hyperfocal distance to my advantage.  Go ahead and read the wikipedia article.  I’ll wait.

Now, why do we care?  If you can grasp this concept, then it’ll drastically improve the depth of your landscape images.

What does this mean to us when shooting? (more, after the jump) Click to continue »

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