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Going out, an example

Friday, April 24th, 2009

Building on the last five posts or so, the next few days will be examples of photographs taken by following my technique (more-or-less).  I’ll describe the situation, the settings, and then display a photo for the day.

Today, I start with a picture from last November.  We were on vacation in Wailea, Maui.  If you know about the area, you know how nice it is.  The weather was unnaturally windy, though – rough for that area.  It even rained one day!  And by wind, I mean “light breeze.”

So here we are, in a beautiful area, but there are clouds.  Spotty clouds, mostly sunny. Going down to the beach, I have the sd500 in the waterproof case.  ISO is pre-set to 50, white balance to daylight, EV to -1/3.  At the beach (same area as the image posted on April 5th), I noticed a rocky area to the south, and some rocks stacked up by (assumedly) the locals.

Stack of rocks, setup by locals (I'm assuming)

Stack of rocks, setup by locals (I'm assuming).

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Exposure Values on the sd500

Thursday, April 23rd, 2009
EV Compensation in action

EV Compensation in action

Exposure Value (EV for short) is a way of adjusting your exposure.  Exposure, which is to say how bright the photo is.  By default, EV compensation is set to zero: don’t make it brighter, don’t make it darker.  Just take it at what the sensor thinks is the correct exposure.

Notice that I’m set at -1/3.  Each full number can be considered a “stop”, and (gross oversimplification, I know) each photo will have roughly 5 stops. So, by shifting it to -1/3 (that’s 1/3 of a stop darker than normal), I’m slightly skewing the end results to be darker.  Why?

The main reason it to retain detail.  Sometimes, when there are extremely bright highlights, will bump it down to -2/3 or -1.  A full stop darker will help keep those highlights from being blown out.

Digital photography basically works like this: if something gets too bright, it stops registering info.  Or rather, the sensor keeps reading light, but it won’t go past 255 (for red, green, and blue channels) – too much light and it stops there.  There I go, getting lost in the technology again.  Ignore it, just accept: if too much light hits the sensor, no detail gets recorded.

Stepping down the EV will cut down the amount of light hitting the sensor.  Fewer pixels hit the maximum, and more detail gets saved.  The tradeoff? More noise – darker photos have less time to write valid data to the shadows, so shadows get noisier.
So, I take slightly darker photos, and massage them in Photoshop after the fact to get back to where I want.

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Custom White Balance

Wednesday, April 22nd, 2009

I don’t actually use this much these days, but it’s a handy option to have, especially in difficult to gauge situations.  Setting white balance is easy; it’s as easy as taking a snapshot.  Using it appropriately is tougher.

the custom options for white balance

the custom options for white balance

Setting white balance: go into the menu, like we did yesterday.  This time, go to the far-right option (looks like a couple of triangles and a dot).  Immediately, you’ll start seeing funny things going on, like in the pic to the right.  That’s the custom white balance screen evaluating the balance based on… a black piece of paper. To set this as the white balance point, do what it says: press the MENU button.

So yeah, it’s easy to set white balance.  but what should you use?  Well, something white.  Or non-tinted, at least – grey technically works pretty well, so long as it’s a dead gray.  Snow works, so long as it isn’t yellow (and for us in Anchorage, so long as it isn’t break-up).  Walls sometimes work – I’ve found decent results using grey construction blocks and the interior walls of my house (we painted it an almost flat white).  Shoot, after a long winter in Alaska, I’m so pasty I can even use the back of my hand and get decent results.

These are all techniques that work in a pinch, but it’s better to use a real white balance card or something similar to get it right.  When travelling, I usually carry a card with me.  Running around town? Not at all.  That’s why I rely on presets with the sd500.
What about my SLR?  I usually use kelvin. That’s not an option on the sd500.

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Keeping your Whites Tight

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009

White balance.  It’s more important than most people think – controlls the overall feel of the photo, most notably in regards to how warm or cold it feels.  These days (and even with this old camera), the auto white-balance settings are not that bad.  But by setting it manually, it can be much better.

White Balance Menu Options

White Balance Menu Options

So reviewing the options: most cameras come with presets for straight daylight, cloudy conditions, interior light, fluorescents, sometimes a halogen fluorescent, and (most of the time, unless you’re unlucky) ad custom setting.  Look to the image at right – those are the exact settings in order from left to right.  On this camera, to get there: presS the FUNC button, then move down to the second option (where the icon of the sun is on the left, arrow to the right of it).  From here, you move left or right to select the appropriate white balance.

So, situations: in direct sunlight, definately leave it on the icon of the sun.  This will work pretty well.  Cloudy conditions, you’re thinking: go ahead & shove it over to clouds, right?  Not so fast: that works well for landscape photos, nature photos, maybe flowers & buildings.  But most of the time we’re taking pics of people.  On an overcast day, I usually leave it on sunny when the subject is other people.  This warms up flesh tones & makes the people look a bit more… orange, actually.  But it’s that healthy orange glow that people like in their photographs.

Once you move indoors, you’d think you would want the icon that looks like a bulb, right?  Move to indoor lighting.  Again, sometimes true, but not always.  That bulb is actually balanced for tungsten lighting, or typical indoor lights.  But these days, you can get indoor lights that are daylight balanced – if you use the indoor setting for daylight balance, your photos will have a blue tint to them.  Not good.

So, the general rule that I follow: if I can detect a slight yellowness to the light, I shift into this white balance.  If not?  Leave it at cloudy.  Yes, cloudy.  Cloudy is slightly warmer than most daylight-balanced bulbs so flesh tones come out well, yet it’s close enough that everything else will look natural.

The next setting, fluorescent lighting.  If you see flourescent lights, use this.  Flourescents give a slightly off-cast to color (usually slightly green), and you don’t really want people in your pics with a slightly green tint.  Unless it’s your kids after gorging on candy.  Then it’s normal.

Halogen flourescent?  I don’t use this, actually.  Ever.  Perhaps someday I’ll rethink that.

Custom white balance is a pretty large topic.  That will be covered in tomorrow’s post.

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Shifting out of Auto

Sunday, April 19th, 2009

When dealing with a camera with such a small sensor, I find that I can’t rely on the auto settings in any way.  They kinda work if you’re only interested in snapshots. You know the type: flash in normal conditions that blows out the subject and darkens the room, something that really doesn’t make the pics good, just good enough. Auto mode on this camera isn’t even used when my 4-year-old picks it up!

It does a somewhat decent job when taking outdoor photographs in bright sunlight, though.   Unless the light is behind the subject.  Normally.

Auto is just hard to predict.  You’re much better suited to shift either into scenic or manual mode.

Scenic Mode

Buttons & switches on the sd500. Note the "SCM" and "M" buttons.

Buttons & switches on the sd500. Note the "SCN" and "M" buttons.

Most cameras have a scenic mode.  Some have several: lower-end DSLRs tend to have “sports”, “portraits”, “beach”, etc.  settings.  The sd-like series are no different – except that it’s a single scenic mode, and you toggle a menu setting to get to your desired setting.  I may write about this someday, but that’s not the topic I’d like to cover today.

To the right: “SCN” is the “Scenic Mode” option on the sd500.  Dial “M” for “Manual.”

Manual Mode

They can call it “manual” all they want, but it really isn’t.  I consider it more of an “almost manual” mode, or an “advanced scenic”.  Why?  Well, it’s somewhat limited.  You can’t set your own F-stop, nor can you control shutter speed.  You can, however, control ISO, white balance, exposure values, and a few other (lesser-used) settings.

Again, it’s not really manual, but it’s as close as you can get without hacking the firmware.

And that will introduce you to the next series of posts: why I care about customizing the settings.  Coming up:

  • ISO – why I care & where I usually set it.
  • White Balance – what I use & when. Also, how I customize it.
  • Exposure Value compensation – where I leave it and why.
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